Bowls Bias

Bowls 101

Choosing your bowls

What shapes the curve, what to think about before you buy, and a glossary of every bowls word you'll hear — in plain English. Five-minute read.

Why bowls curve

A bowl curves because it's built to. The two sides aren't quite the same shape — one is a touch flatter than the other, which shifts the centre of gravity off-axis. While the bowl is running fast, you can't see the bias at work. As it slows, you can: the flatter side starts to pull, gravity and friction take over, and the bowl arcs along a predictable line toward the jack.

That arc is what bowlers mean when they say bias. Every bowl has one — the question is how wide, how late it kicks in, and whether it suits the green you play on.

What a curve looks like

Two ways of picturing it — one bowl's arc against a few archetypes, then a top-down view of the rink showing where the curve actually goes.

if a bowl ran straightNarrowMediumWideMatJack
Three archetypal draw widths. A narrow bowl tracks tight to the centre; a wide bowl swings out further before curving back. The catalogue rates every bowl on this scale.
MatJackBackhandForehandAim lineAim lineHog lineGutter
The same arc, from above. Every bowl can be played either side — forehand or backhand— with the aim line set wide enough to let the bias curve the bowl back to the jack.

Before you buy

The single most useful thing you can do before choosing bowls is roll some. Almost every club lends bowls to newcomers, and many run free Come and Try days through the season. A few hours on the green teaches your hands more about fit than any spec sheet ever will.

Once you've felt how a bowl behaves — how it grips, how it rolls, how it finishes — the rest of this guide will land harder, and the quiz will give you a sharper shortlist.

Local to Australia? Bowls Australia's club finder will point you at your nearest club.

What to think about

Six things shape the right bowl for you. The quiz asks about each one.

  1. 01

    Where you'll play

    AU and NZ greens are fast and tight. UK and EU greens are slower and heavier. Indoor surfaces are different again. A bowl built for one isn't always great on another — and if you travel, you may need a bowl that spans both.

  2. 02

    The surface

    Grass, synthetic and carpet each grip the bowl differently. Some bowls are explicitly designed for one surface and lose their character on another. If you play on more than one, look for an all-rounder.

  3. 03

    Green speed

    Measured in seconds — the time it takes a bowl to reach the jack. Fast greens (14+) favour narrower bowls; slow or heavy greens (under 12) reward a wider draw. Don't know your number? Ask your club.

  4. 04

    Your experience

    Beginners benefit from forgiving, wider-draw bowls that don't punish a small delivery wobble. Polished players can handle bowls that reward precision and shape the head with more variety.

  5. 05

    Hand size

    Sizes 00–5 refer to diameter, not weight. A bowl you can't grip cleanly will never play well, no matter how good the spec is. Picking the right size matters more than picking the right weight.

  6. 06

    What you already play

    If you already have bowls, what feel are you chasing? More turn, less turn, or just a second set for conditions your current bowls can't quite handle? Your answer narrows the field fast.

Sizing

Smaller variance than you'd expect — and entirely about grip.

Bowls sizes run from 00 (smallest) to 5 (largest), but the actual diameter difference is only about 15mm across the entire range. That's less than people expect, and it's the reason sizing is about grip, not weight or strength.

00116mm0117mm1118mm2121mm3124mm4128mm5131mm
Approximate diameters across the size range. Visual differences are slightly exaggerated for clarity — in reality, a size 5 is only ~15mm wider than a 00.

A bowl you can't span comfortably will roll inconsistently no matter how good the spec is. Try a few sizes in person before committing — half a size up or down can be the difference between a bowl that drops on release and one that comes off cleanly.

The cradle test

Span the bowl between your middle finger and thumb at full grip. If it extends past your middle finger crease, it's too big. If your fingers wrap fully around the running surface with no stretch, it might be too small. Your pro shop will run this test with you.

Rough starting points

  • Small hands — sizes 00, 0, 1
  • Medium hands — sizes 2, 3
  • Large hands — sizes 4, 5

Stamp year

When the bowl's certification expires.

Every bowl carries a stamp showing the year its certification runs out. World Bowls tests bowls periodically (typically every ten years) and the stamp shows when the current certification expires. The stamp matters for two reasons:

Competition use

Most associations require the stamp year to be in the future — i.e., the certification hasn't expired yet. Once the stamp year has passed, the bowl can still be played socially but not in pennants or championship.

Quick check: stamp year ≥ current year means competition-legal.

Buying secondhand

Always check the stamp first. A bowl with several years on the clock might be a steal at the right price; one with a year left, less so — unless you're buying for social play only.

Rules vary by jurisdiction and association. Your bowls secretary or manager will know the current rules in your area.

Looking after your bowls

Bowls are tougher than they look — a few basics keep them rolling true.

  • Wipe down after each game

    A damp cloth removes dust and lawn debris that affects the grip surface. Takes ten seconds and makes a real difference over time.

  • Don't polish

    Most manufacturers actively recommend against polishing — it changes how the surface holds and releases, and isn't needed for the resin compounds modern bowls use.

  • Store dry, room temperature

    Hot car boots can warp the resin; damp sheds dull the grip. A spot indoors is all they need.

  • Bag them properly

    A bowls bag with individual compartments is worth the spend. Bowls knocking together in transport will chip running surfaces over time.

Glossary

Every bowls word you'll hear, in plain English. Alphabetised.

Bias
The deliberate asymmetry inside a bowl that makes it curve. One side is shaped slightly flatter than the other, shifting the centre of gravity. The bias is stamped on the smaller side as a visual cue for which way the bowl will turn.
Bowl
The thing you roll. Pedants will correct you if you call it a ball.
Draw shot
The standard delivery: rolling the bowl smoothly along its natural arc to finish close to the jack. Most of bowls is draw shots.
Draw width
How wide a bowl arcs at typical pace. A "wide" bowl swings further out before curving back; a "narrow" bowl tracks a tighter line. The right amount depends on your greens.
End
One round of play. Both teams roll all their bowls toward the jack, count the score, then play the next end back the other direction.
Forehand / Backhand
Which way the bowl curves from your delivery hand. For a right-hander, forehand curves right-to-left into the head; backhand curves the opposite way. Most bowlers prefer one over the other depending on the situation.
Green speed
How fast a green is. Measured in seconds — roughly the time it takes a bowl to travel about 30m. Faster greens have less grass holding the bowl back, so bowls run longer and curve more at the end.
Head
The cluster of bowls already played around the jack. Skips spend a lot of time staring at it and deciding what to do next.
Jack
The small white (sometimes yellow) ball at the far end of the rink. You're aiming at it.
Lead, Second, Third, Skip
Team positions in playing order. Lead delivers first and sets up the head; skip plays last and calls the shots. In fours, a Second sits between them; in triples, no Second.
Mat
The rectangle you stand on to deliver. Both teams deliver from the same mat each end. Moving the mat changes the length of the end.
Running shot
A firmer, less-curved delivery used to disturb the head — knock the jack out, scatter opposing bowls, or drive through.
Size
The diameter of a bowl, sized 00 (smallest) to 5 (largest). Picked to fit your hand cleanly — not your weight preference (that’s a separate choice).
Stamp year
The year a bowl’s certification expires. As long as the stamp year is in the future, the bowl is legal for pennants and championship. Once it has passed, the bowl can still be rolled socially but isn’t competition-legal until it’s re-tested and re-stamped.
Surface
What you’re playing on: grass (most outdoor clubs), synthetic (artificial turf), or carpet (indoor centres). Each rolls differently.
Turn
How much a bowl arcs as it slows. "More turn" means a wider draw; "less turn" means a tighter line. Often described as a feel rather than a number.
Weight (standard vs heavy)
Most bowls come in two weights. Heavy is the AU competition default — it holds line better in wind and on fast greens. Standard is lighter and easier on hands and wrists; worth considering if grip or fatigue is an issue.

Frequently asked

The questions newcomers ask before they buy.

Do I need lessons before I buy bowls?
Not strictly, but a few free social sessions help a lot. Most clubs run lesson programs for beginners — usually free or under $50 — that include borrowed bowls. You'll learn what feels right in your hand before you spend.
How many bowls do I need? Do they come in sets?
Bowls are sold in sets — most commonly four (a “set of four”), occasionally pairs. The number you play with depends on the format: singles is four bowls, pairs is four, triples is three, fours is two. So a set of four covers every format you'll meet at a club. New sets are matched (same brand, model, size and stamp year); when buying secondhand, make sure the seller is selling all four together.
Can I use my grandparent's old bowls?
Socially, yes. For pennants or championship play, check the stamp year first — it shows when the bowl's certification expires. If that year has already passed, the bowl is fine for a roll-up but not competition-legal until it's re-tested. Older bowls also tend to be wider-draw than modern ones, which can be a surprise on fast modern greens.
How much should I expect to spend?
Around $600–$900 AUD for a new four-bowl set from a major brand, with premium and specialist sets pushing past $1,000. Secondhand bowls in good condition typically land between $250–$450 — roughly 30–50% of new RRP, depending on the brand, age of stamp and how well they've been looked after. Your pro shop or club sometimes has ex-rental or test sets at the lower end too.
Should I buy new or secondhand?
Both work. New gives you the full stamp life and current designs. Secondhand can be excellent value if the stamp year is far enough in the future for your competitive needs. Inspect for chips on the running surface and confirm the grip suits you before buying.
Do I need different bowls for forehand and backhand?
No. The same bowl curves both ways — you just position the bias differently in your hand. Two-bowl pairs, three-bowl singles, four-bowl pairs all use identical bowls; you just swap which side the bias faces.
Will my bowls work overseas?
Maybe. Bowls designed for fast AU/NZ greens often draw too narrow on slower UK or EU grass, and vice versa. If you travel often, look for a bowl rated for both — the quiz flags these when you pick “Both” as your region.
What if I’m left-handed?
No different. Bowls is genuinely ambidextrous — every bowl works equally for left and right delivery. You'll roll from the same mat as right-handers; your forehand and backhand are just mirrored.
Do I need bowls shoes or whites to start?
Depends on the club. Most welcome you in flats — or even barefoot — for a casual roll, but some clubs are stricter about footwear and uniform from day one. When you arrive, just ask any member or the bowls manager; you usually don't need to check ahead, but it never hurts to. Whites or club uniform are typically only required for pennants and competition.
How long do bowls last?
Modern plastic compounds don't really wear out — a 20-year-old bowl plays much the same as it did new. The limit for competition is the stamp year (when the certification expires), not the bowl itself. For social play, they'll outlast you.

Ready to find yours?

Seven quick questions. A shortlist tuned to your greens, your hand, your game.

Find your bowls: Take our quiz